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After seeing Chris' 103 LE on canvas, I knew mine was going to wear something similar.

I purchased three cheapy canvas straps in orange, navy blue, and gray just to try which one I think would work the best. All three complemented the watch, but gray was the winner.



The blue leather strap that came mounted on the watch was firm/non supple at the lug end and it was pretty flushed against the lugs and I had to forcefully push/slide the strap to one side just to take a peek at the spring bars. When I did see the spring bar I was unsure if I could engage it with my spring bar remover.

Here is the problem. There is minimal to no purchase point for the fork of my spring bar tool to engage the spring bar. I would have to literally rest the metal fork against the internal wall of the lugs to try to disengage or pry one end of the spring bar.

Fearing that I would gouge and mutilate the internal walls of the lug bars, I decided to bring an instrument and 1/2" laminated white label maker tape from work.





I sized up the lug hole and dialed in the right size on my rubber dam punch. I took approx 1.0" length label maker tape and punched a hole on one side of the tape and cut the strip in half. I then cut the bottom half of the tape to connect to the punched hole.

















I slid the tape between the lug bar and leather strap while retracting the strap towards the opposite side.





I wrapped the tape around the lug bars.





I commenced with engaging the flushed spring bar. It took several attempts.



Comparing the Sinn spring bar with a generic spring bar. Note the additional offset purchase point on the generic bar. The generic bar does not look as solid as the Sinn's, but should work for the meantime until I find better replacements.



Completion of strap change. Clean and atraumatic procedure, :thumbsup:





Wrist shots:







I also tried clear scotch tape on my Aegir. I dialed in the right sized punch hole on my instrument and voilà! ​





Thanks all and I hope this post will benefit others.







Sent from my iPhone
 

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Glad to know there's someone as picky as I am. Great work and thanks for the tips


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Nice job, Axelay. Wouldn't a small nail or the tip of an icepick work just as well? I'm assuming so, given that all that's needed is a small hole. Perhaps even the tip of a non-working ballpoint pen would work as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Where would one find a punch like that???
I think leather hole punchers work similarly, although I do not know if those types can punch holes as small as 1mm.

This particular one can be purchased by your dentist.
 

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Nice job, Axelay. Wouldn't a small nail or the tip of an icepick work just as well? I'm assuming so, given that all that's needed is a small hole. Perhaps even the tip of a non-working ballpoint pen would work as well.
I suppose, but haven't tried it that way. The key is to punch an actual hole the size of the spring bars. That way you have minimum difficulty in seating the punched part of the tape over the spring bar.
 

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I would have to literally rest the metal fork against the internal wall of the lugs to try to disengage or pry one end of the spring bar.

Fearing that I would gouge and mutilate the internal walls of the lug bars

Huh? I don’t get it, I take off and on my straps with this tool and never scratched up the inside of the lugs? Since the inside of the lugs can’t be seen when the straps are in place, why would you care about them being scratched in the first place???


 
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Huh? I don’t get it, I take off and on my straps with this tool and never scratched up the inside of the lugs? Since the inside of the lugs can’t be seen when the straps are in place, why would you care about them being scratched in the first place???



I am only referring this technique to spring bars of this style and tight clearances of this magnitude. For anyone who have the Sinn 103, you know exactly what I'm referring to.

Firstly, the clearance between the firm leather and lug is the tightest I've ever encountered, hence the reason why I did this procedure. I was afraid that once I am able to pry the spring bar loose, it would just slide off and ride on the top or bottom of the lug's angled corners.

Secondly, as I mentioned above, the purchase point is minimal to almost none. I had to literally leverage the flat side of fork against the internal surface of lug and what ever surface I can engage on the spring bar. That is why I replaced the Sinn spring bars with generic ones that have an additional and ideal purchase point.
 

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That is just awesome sir, and really ingenious !!! :) :smileyface_hand_cla
I bet jewelers don't even do this when changing a strap, or bracelet. :eek: Really is such a neat idea, and reminds me of something MacGyver would try if he was into watches, or trying this. Definitely is helpful to see. Thanks very very much, and big congratulations on that fantastic looking strap as well !
 

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Huh? I don’t get it, I take off and on my straps with this tool and never scratched up the inside of the lugs? Since the inside of the lugs can’t be seen when the straps are in place, why would you care about them being scratched in the first place???



I'm with you bro'... I was looking for some kind of revelation... Actually I thought he was going to drill the lugs out but all that to prevent a possible metal on metal contact? SHEESH! And I thought I was delicate with my watches...:rolleyes:
 

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I'm with you bro'... I was looking for some kind of revelation... Actually I thought he was going to drill the lugs out but all that to prevent a possible metal on metal contact? SHEESH! And I thought I was delicate with my watches...:rolleyes:
That's what I thought, from the thread title, I thought it was going to be a primer on how to drill out the lug holes??
 

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I could see your take on the title thread. My bad.
Not bad at all, good tip to keep your strap changes pristine. I would love to see one about changing bracelets, because even with the proper tools, it's still a pain!
 
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