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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to all my WF friends,

My question is this:
When considering a purchase, what is your deal breaker?
What is it that stops you from making a purchase?

Is it size, lume, no date/date, materials, strap/bracelet, price, rattles, chrono/no chrono country of origin etc? (I think price would be for most)

My deal breaker(s) are
1. no date quickset
2. rattles
3. although not a deal breaker, folded end links & stamped clasps.

Please chime in! :(
 

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Price is not the biggest factor for me as I'm usually looking in my budget to begin with.

But I always want a sapphire crystal...(I'm ok with hardlex on a seiko) folded end links are a no no with me, and size is a deal breaker as well. I won't consider anything under 40 or over 45mm.


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Size & lack of papers. Doesn't have to be from an AD, but at least needs to have proof of purchase or Grey market warranty card.
 
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Anything over 45mm in case diameter


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I only look for watches that are of my taste and within my means. I look AT other watches but don't buy those because of one of these reasons.

Deal breakers could be:

Type of movement (no Quartz);
Size (no alarm clock on the wrist please);
Finish (no chrome plating, flimsy bracelets or hollow links, except on true vintage pieces);
Poor value for money.
 
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Over priced. Anyone can access values on just about any watch we see
Why ask for more than Jomashope?or others like that.
Fuzzy or incomplete information. I always want to know what drives the watch.. Movement

One thing for sure... None of my watches can be found on the clone market
I am sure some watches I've been offered were fakes. No box,papers or age

However when I started out I did score some good deals buying on respected forums with known sellers with obvious honesty.

Today, I'm kind of limited. Lots of the old crow just dropped out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I only look for watches that are of my taste and within my means. I look AT other watches but don't buy those because of one of these reasons.

Deal breakers could be:

Type of movement (no Quartz);
Size (no alarm clock on the wrist please);
Finish (no chrome plating, flimsy bracelets or hollow links, except on true vintage pieces);
Poor value for money.
GW, chrome plating, YES! I have one watch that has this, I like the watch but for the plating. I overlooked this altogether :(

It doesn't look "right" IMO. Big difference between polished SS & "chrome".
Chrome belongs on classic cars!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Over priced. Anyone can access values on just about any watch we see
Why ask for more than Jomashope?or others like that.
Fuzzy or incomplete information. I always want to know what drives the watch.. Movement

One thing for sure... None of my watches can be found on the clone market
I am sure some watches I've been offered were fakes. No box,papers or age

However when I started out I did score some good deals buying on respected forums with known sellers with obvious honesty.

Today, I'm kind of limited. Lots of the old crow just dropped out.

SAGE advice :cool:
 

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What a neat question Roarry ! :thumb: Really don't have a deal breaker to be honest, but if I had to pick one it 'might' be size.

My wrists aren't as big as they used to be, and larger watches can look a little odd on my wrists now. I mean I still like them, and could enjoy them around the house I guess. :anim_63:

Just seems I can't go much above that 45mm like #four Roarry.
 

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1) Size-too big or too small is a no-no
2) Made in China equals no buy for me.
3) Yellow gold-Hate it, hate it, hate it.
 

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Great question!

Folded end-links
A bezel that does not line up perfectly
Oversize...does it really have to be 62mm wide?
Thickness, just can't get into thin (slim) watches
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Great question!

Folded end-links
A bezel that does not line up perfectly
Oversize...does it really have to be 62mm wide?
Thickness, just can't get into thin (slim) watches
Yup. Poor bezel line up. Sent my Omeeeeega Seamaster back under warranty because pip was off a "half a minute" Drove me nuts. :(
 

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Deal Breakers:

- Price always comes into play.
- Size.
- A private seller who only accepts wire transfer or money order. Red flag!
- A seller who wants the buyer to pay for Paypal fees.
 

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Mainly it's price: when it goes over the $1500 mark, I'm out.

Size is a factor, but of course it depends on how the watch wears. I have a 45 mm that I wear daily that I would never guess is that measurement, while I'm flirting with a dress watch that comes in at a very petite sounding 37 mm. But it looks awfully good in the videos and wristshots I've seen.

So much is subjective, except for the price tag.
 
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